Post by Sin-N-Terrors on Feb 27, 2014 21:57:59 GMT -5
Contributed by Sin
Written by: Vryk
Bare knuckles is all about efficiency and avoiding more damage than you cause. It's about establishing the endurance advantage and then beating your opponent into the ground. So what is efficiency you ask? In theory the perfectly efficient fighter would have STR=AGL and SPD=STR/2. If you created a bunch of bare knucklers with that formula, you'd go pretty far, but you'd have trouble with slower, slightly less agile clinchers. So, you need to compensate for these matchups and go with STR=AGL and SPD=STR/3. Personally, I tend to have AGL 2 or 3 points above STR just so that I can always be sure that I have the AGL advantage. AGL is easily the most important stat in BK, and you should always look to maximize your AGL advantage. KP is inefficient, and I don't use it (very often). With that said... If you can sit on 4 or so points of it and not use it, you can often use it to take out an unsuspecting champ
.
Now for the non-fighting stats. Cuts are always low. Don't waste AP's on it. Build is normally very heavy. You can use others, but very heavy maximizes your AGL for the weight class. CND should start out at 14. I used to start with 12 or 13 CND, but the new fight engine in BK really punishes low CND should you end
up in a close match. 16 CND is the most that you really need and 15 works extremely well, too. Chin is as low as you feel comfortable. I've started as low as 5 and I've had champs with as little as 6. /?!! Better don't do it! Very doubtfully, outdated info imo. Powerlille/ You just have to really scout your opponent for KP, and you can't care about losing early in your career to a flasher.
So now you've got a super agile, super strong, slow fat guy with no chin, and now you need to know how to fight.
I'll start with the things not to do:
A) Never jab. If you jab, they will make fun of you in press.
B) Never feint. If you use feint, they will make fun of you in press.
C) Never use outside. see above.
D) Never counter. If you only have the HGT and SPD advantage, then retire the fighter.
Your 4 main styles are ring, ropes, clinch and no style. Ropes should be your #1 style. Use ring only against really short clinchers (if they have < 14 AGL or so) and high KP fighters. Use no style when you're fighting someone of equal height, and you don't have an obvious advantage in STR or AGL. Clinch when you're giving up more than 3 inches in height. For everything else, use ropes. Tactics - wise
, if you're clinching, start out with 4b/8/8 and start upping your POW and AGG once you have the endurance advantage. Typical progression is 4b/9/7, 4b/10/6, 5b/10/5... If you're using any of the other styles and your fighter has less than 16 CND, then start out with 3b/9/8 and start upping POW and AGG once you have the endurance advantage.
Typical progression is 3b/10/7, 4b/10/6, 4b/11/5.. If you have 16 or more CND, use the same progression as clinch. The reason for this is that you want to minimize fatigue. If you're dealing +0.3 points of damage per round, but you're taking 1.0 point of fatigue more than your opponent, you'll lose the endurance battle.
The only other fighter type that I recommend using is a flasher. Also, if you're planning on trying to win a title, you often need more than one fighter in a weight class.
Champs tend to sit on their titles until you cause enough AP loss to get the advantage. There are only 2 phases of a BK fight: Round 25 and the rest. 80% of my conditionals deal with the first 24 rounds, then the last 20% are for round 25. The only difference between round 25 conditionals and tactics from the
earlier rounds is that I target the head instead of the body. I only ever go for the KO in round 25 as I prefer to win by TKO (it does a lot more damage, and you will want to be remembered as the meanest,sickest, most twisted manager to ever ruin someone's fighter).
Your best bet is to write a fight plan, and then start tweaking it after each fight. The FP is not the key to BK.
An example of a possible starting stats for BK Super-Welter 5'7"
18 Strength 0 KP
6 Sp
eed 18 Agility
6 Chin 14 Conditioning
Very Heavy
With a guy like this, you would want to maintain the STR/AGL/SPD ratios and you'll be set. Also, when you face your 1st good opponent, you'll want 15 CND.
I'm going to try to make this next point without really confusing you (and everyone else for that matter). Although SPD=STR/3 is what I recommend for fighting the general opponent, when you run into another efficiency fighter, the fighter that is closer to SPD=STR/2 is going to come out on top, even if they have
less STR and AGL. To see what I mean, sim that guy against:
17 STR 0 KP
8 SPD 17 AGL
6 CHN 15 CND
low cuts and very heavy build.
Make them both go 3b/9/8 (no style) and give your guy 15 CND, too.
So with that all said, when you face someonewho is also running the SPD=STR/3 guy and you're already at 15 CND, then train SPD.
Another thing to remember: you've got 25 rounds to work with, so there's no reason to try to win early. If you try to win quickly, you will often hurt yourself more in the process, and that can cost you the fight.
Establish the endurance advantage before you start opening up.
Also, you're going to want more than 1 fighter per weight class if you really want a title. Champs are much harder to dethrone in BK than in any other region
Your goal is to get the title with only 16 CND. If you train CND that early in your career, you can be hurt by too many random CND gains. I'd just let it ride with 14 until you get to status 12. If you haven't gotten to 15 by then, then train CND (with the knowledge that from then on, you'll always get CND
Flashers have a big disadvantage in BK in that they have to win quick, or try to make it through 25 rounds. Working to the flasher's advantage are the low chins common in BK. So how do you give your 6 chin guy a chance of winning? Use the high number of rounds and the flasher's typically low CND to your advantage. Start out with 18 DEF, and drop down by 1 for each round that you don't get stunned. You can further control how quickly you open
up by also looking at your KD's and your opponent’s endurance. If your opponent is tired, you can use 1 or 2 fewer points of defense than if he was strong.
Also, training chin to 7 wouldn't hurt your fighter's design much, and may actually help you take a few fewer IP's during your career. If you're facing someone that is going to allout you and win regardless of your 18 DEF, you could just be evil and allout him, too. You'll lose and almost always take just 25 IP's (if you lose by TKO, all bets are off on how many you'll take, but that is just really crappy luck on your part), and he'll always take a crap load. If he's a good allout flasher, then you’re screwed, period. Make him think twice about ever doing it again by going 5/10/5 (allout). Take the 25 IP's, give him 400+, and be content in the knowledge that he'll probably never allout you in round 1 ever again. If he's crap, then stick with 1/1/18 (ring) until he stops stunning you before you start dropping DEF. Once you've got him exhausted, you have two options. If you know that he's resting, then 5b/10/5 (allout) will ruin him. If he's not resting, then just keep dropping DEF until he's out. I always go to the body against a flasher. If he doesn't have a towel conditional, then you're
guaranteed a glorious TKO win. If he's just an inside flasher, then try to figure
out how little DEF you can get away with to start out, and start dropping it when he stops stunning you. I typically start out with 15 DEF against inside flashers. Sometimes more if they look to be particularly well designed or if it's obvious that all I'm going to have to do is wait until round 4 for them to be exhausted
to win.
Do you take advantage of the stun rule?
Normally not. With low chin, going for a stun is kind of dangerous. If I know
my opponent and his tactics, and I know that he's going to drop his defense a couple of points in a certain round late in the fight and still target the body, I might go for the stun then, but I'm not going to go for the stun in round 1 and win like that. The only reason that I go for a stun is that I know that the fight will end in a draw unless one of us gets a stun. I have this sadistic streak in me that won't allow me to just win a fight. I'm out to ruin fighters. I
purposefully don't target the head until round 25 just to make sure that I inflict as much damage as possible. Most of my FP's also back off the punishment if my opponent is exhausted before round 20 in order to allow them to recover some of their endurance so that I can beat it out of them again.
How long will a BK fighter last?
You can't really get a good number for that because it depends a lot on the weight class and who you've fought. I've had fighters last 30+ fights with no AP loss, and I've had others only last 15. From my experience it seems that the lighter the weight class, the more IP's you'll average. Cruisers and heavies
seem to be the easiest on the IP's. This is why I always say to run more than 1 BK fighter per weight class since you never know if the one is going to face
a bunch of good opponents or morons. With low chin, you have to win pretty quickly not to take some IP's. The fighter design isn't setup with longevity in mind, per se. It's really designed for winning the otherwise unwinnable matches against the slow clinchers and matches at an AP disadvantage. Remember earlier, where I talked about how the SPD=STR/2 fighters beat the SPD=STR/3 fighters.
Because you really aren't the most efficient that you could be, you're stuck taking a few more IP's than if you were a true efficiency fighter in matches where you don't need the extra STR and AGL. If you create a SPD=STR/2 fighter in the mix that you have, you'll see that he tends to average fewer IP's against the
bums, but when you hit an agile clincher type fighter, he won't be able to do anything but draw, whereas the SPD=STR/3 fighter will win.
Also, what type of chin would you use for a flasher in BK? I try to keep
Chin= KP *2
What would be a good resting endurance conditional in BK?
if score >= 0 and opp < strong and endurance_percent < 76 and round = N then 1/1/8 (clinch);
Make sure to vary N from fight to fight. I've caught more than one person resting when they don't change they're conditionals. You shouldn't need more than 2 rest rounds for the entire fight.
The SPD=STR/3 guys were designed to use ropes against agile clinchers. Real clinchers would murder you if you tried to use ropes on the
Written by: Vryk
Bare knuckles is all about efficiency and avoiding more damage than you cause. It's about establishing the endurance advantage and then beating your opponent into the ground. So what is efficiency you ask? In theory the perfectly efficient fighter would have STR=AGL and SPD=STR/2. If you created a bunch of bare knucklers with that formula, you'd go pretty far, but you'd have trouble with slower, slightly less agile clinchers. So, you need to compensate for these matchups and go with STR=AGL and SPD=STR/3. Personally, I tend to have AGL 2 or 3 points above STR just so that I can always be sure that I have the AGL advantage. AGL is easily the most important stat in BK, and you should always look to maximize your AGL advantage. KP is inefficient, and I don't use it (very often). With that said... If you can sit on 4 or so points of it and not use it, you can often use it to take out an unsuspecting champ
.
Now for the non-fighting stats. Cuts are always low. Don't waste AP's on it. Build is normally very heavy. You can use others, but very heavy maximizes your AGL for the weight class. CND should start out at 14. I used to start with 12 or 13 CND, but the new fight engine in BK really punishes low CND should you end
up in a close match. 16 CND is the most that you really need and 15 works extremely well, too. Chin is as low as you feel comfortable. I've started as low as 5 and I've had champs with as little as 6. /?!! Better don't do it! Very doubtfully, outdated info imo. Powerlille/ You just have to really scout your opponent for KP, and you can't care about losing early in your career to a flasher.
So now you've got a super agile, super strong, slow fat guy with no chin, and now you need to know how to fight.
I'll start with the things not to do:
A) Never jab. If you jab, they will make fun of you in press.
B) Never feint. If you use feint, they will make fun of you in press.
C) Never use outside. see above.
D) Never counter. If you only have the HGT and SPD advantage, then retire the fighter.
Your 4 main styles are ring, ropes, clinch and no style. Ropes should be your #1 style. Use ring only against really short clinchers (if they have < 14 AGL or so) and high KP fighters. Use no style when you're fighting someone of equal height, and you don't have an obvious advantage in STR or AGL. Clinch when you're giving up more than 3 inches in height. For everything else, use ropes. Tactics - wise
, if you're clinching, start out with 4b/8/8 and start upping your POW and AGG once you have the endurance advantage. Typical progression is 4b/9/7, 4b/10/6, 5b/10/5... If you're using any of the other styles and your fighter has less than 16 CND, then start out with 3b/9/8 and start upping POW and AGG once you have the endurance advantage.
Typical progression is 3b/10/7, 4b/10/6, 4b/11/5.. If you have 16 or more CND, use the same progression as clinch. The reason for this is that you want to minimize fatigue. If you're dealing +0.3 points of damage per round, but you're taking 1.0 point of fatigue more than your opponent, you'll lose the endurance battle.
The only other fighter type that I recommend using is a flasher. Also, if you're planning on trying to win a title, you often need more than one fighter in a weight class.
Champs tend to sit on their titles until you cause enough AP loss to get the advantage. There are only 2 phases of a BK fight: Round 25 and the rest. 80% of my conditionals deal with the first 24 rounds, then the last 20% are for round 25. The only difference between round 25 conditionals and tactics from the
earlier rounds is that I target the head instead of the body. I only ever go for the KO in round 25 as I prefer to win by TKO (it does a lot more damage, and you will want to be remembered as the meanest,sickest, most twisted manager to ever ruin someone's fighter).
Your best bet is to write a fight plan, and then start tweaking it after each fight. The FP is not the key to BK.
An example of a possible starting stats for BK Super-Welter 5'7"
18 Strength 0 KP
6 Sp
eed 18 Agility
6 Chin 14 Conditioning
Very Heavy
With a guy like this, you would want to maintain the STR/AGL/SPD ratios and you'll be set. Also, when you face your 1st good opponent, you'll want 15 CND.
I'm going to try to make this next point without really confusing you (and everyone else for that matter). Although SPD=STR/3 is what I recommend for fighting the general opponent, when you run into another efficiency fighter, the fighter that is closer to SPD=STR/2 is going to come out on top, even if they have
less STR and AGL. To see what I mean, sim that guy against:
17 STR 0 KP
8 SPD 17 AGL
6 CHN 15 CND
low cuts and very heavy build.
Make them both go 3b/9/8 (no style) and give your guy 15 CND, too.
So with that all said, when you face someonewho is also running the SPD=STR/3 guy and you're already at 15 CND, then train SPD.
Another thing to remember: you've got 25 rounds to work with, so there's no reason to try to win early. If you try to win quickly, you will often hurt yourself more in the process, and that can cost you the fight.
Establish the endurance advantage before you start opening up.
Also, you're going to want more than 1 fighter per weight class if you really want a title. Champs are much harder to dethrone in BK than in any other region
Your goal is to get the title with only 16 CND. If you train CND that early in your career, you can be hurt by too many random CND gains. I'd just let it ride with 14 until you get to status 12. If you haven't gotten to 15 by then, then train CND (with the knowledge that from then on, you'll always get CND
Flashers have a big disadvantage in BK in that they have to win quick, or try to make it through 25 rounds. Working to the flasher's advantage are the low chins common in BK. So how do you give your 6 chin guy a chance of winning? Use the high number of rounds and the flasher's typically low CND to your advantage. Start out with 18 DEF, and drop down by 1 for each round that you don't get stunned. You can further control how quickly you open
up by also looking at your KD's and your opponent’s endurance. If your opponent is tired, you can use 1 or 2 fewer points of defense than if he was strong.
Also, training chin to 7 wouldn't hurt your fighter's design much, and may actually help you take a few fewer IP's during your career. If you're facing someone that is going to allout you and win regardless of your 18 DEF, you could just be evil and allout him, too. You'll lose and almost always take just 25 IP's (if you lose by TKO, all bets are off on how many you'll take, but that is just really crappy luck on your part), and he'll always take a crap load. If he's a good allout flasher, then you’re screwed, period. Make him think twice about ever doing it again by going 5/10/5 (allout). Take the 25 IP's, give him 400+, and be content in the knowledge that he'll probably never allout you in round 1 ever again. If he's crap, then stick with 1/1/18 (ring) until he stops stunning you before you start dropping DEF. Once you've got him exhausted, you have two options. If you know that he's resting, then 5b/10/5 (allout) will ruin him. If he's not resting, then just keep dropping DEF until he's out. I always go to the body against a flasher. If he doesn't have a towel conditional, then you're
guaranteed a glorious TKO win. If he's just an inside flasher, then try to figure
out how little DEF you can get away with to start out, and start dropping it when he stops stunning you. I typically start out with 15 DEF against inside flashers. Sometimes more if they look to be particularly well designed or if it's obvious that all I'm going to have to do is wait until round 4 for them to be exhausted
to win.
Do you take advantage of the stun rule?
Normally not. With low chin, going for a stun is kind of dangerous. If I know
my opponent and his tactics, and I know that he's going to drop his defense a couple of points in a certain round late in the fight and still target the body, I might go for the stun then, but I'm not going to go for the stun in round 1 and win like that. The only reason that I go for a stun is that I know that the fight will end in a draw unless one of us gets a stun. I have this sadistic streak in me that won't allow me to just win a fight. I'm out to ruin fighters. I
purposefully don't target the head until round 25 just to make sure that I inflict as much damage as possible. Most of my FP's also back off the punishment if my opponent is exhausted before round 20 in order to allow them to recover some of their endurance so that I can beat it out of them again.
How long will a BK fighter last?
You can't really get a good number for that because it depends a lot on the weight class and who you've fought. I've had fighters last 30+ fights with no AP loss, and I've had others only last 15. From my experience it seems that the lighter the weight class, the more IP's you'll average. Cruisers and heavies
seem to be the easiest on the IP's. This is why I always say to run more than 1 BK fighter per weight class since you never know if the one is going to face
a bunch of good opponents or morons. With low chin, you have to win pretty quickly not to take some IP's. The fighter design isn't setup with longevity in mind, per se. It's really designed for winning the otherwise unwinnable matches against the slow clinchers and matches at an AP disadvantage. Remember earlier, where I talked about how the SPD=STR/2 fighters beat the SPD=STR/3 fighters.
Because you really aren't the most efficient that you could be, you're stuck taking a few more IP's than if you were a true efficiency fighter in matches where you don't need the extra STR and AGL. If you create a SPD=STR/2 fighter in the mix that you have, you'll see that he tends to average fewer IP's against the
bums, but when you hit an agile clincher type fighter, he won't be able to do anything but draw, whereas the SPD=STR/3 fighter will win.
Also, what type of chin would you use for a flasher in BK? I try to keep
Chin= KP *2
What would be a good resting endurance conditional in BK?
if score >= 0 and opp < strong and endurance_percent < 76 and round = N then 1/1/8 (clinch);
Make sure to vary N from fight to fight. I've caught more than one person resting when they don't change they're conditionals. You shouldn't need more than 2 rest rounds for the entire fight.
The SPD=STR/3 guys were designed to use ropes against agile clinchers. Real clinchers would murder you if you tried to use ropes on the